Home / Interview with Lorraine Ellison
Project part-financed by the European Union
UK Trade & Investment (UKTI) regional sector specialist for textiles, fashion, and design.
Can you give us an overview of what is happening in your sector in relation to export growth in the region?
When you speak of Yorkshire most people tend to think of textiles. Internationally, we are very well known for the high quality of our cloth and, in particular, woollen worsteds and men’s suitings. The industry is much leaner nowadays and at least 80% of the production is destined for overseas markets. Typically, this would be Europe, US, Japan, and the Middle East.
New opportunities exist for the region’s mills in emerging economies such as EU Accession States where increasing amounts of menswear is being produced.
The powerhouses of China, India and Russia offer some very serious opportunities with a new and emerging wealth and an insatiable appetite for high quality amongst discerning consumers.
Innovation is very much the name of the game in this region too, with many companies choosing to diversify their skills and techniques into new areas of contract fabrics, interior fabrics and technical textiles. This has developed into major international business opportunities in a whole range of sub sectors from seating for aircraft, composite materials for the aerospace and automotive industries and a whole range of products for use in healthcare technology.
Fashion and accessories continues to grow with many smaller and larger businesses choosing to run their “show” from the region rather than London. Products include shoes, handbags, belts, bridalwear, lingerie and other areas of clothing. Key markets for these products are Europe, Japan and the US.
Is this a sector that is particularly important to the Yorkshire and Humber region?
We are renowned for the high quality clothing and fabrics here in the region and that is something that we are very proud of. In terms of wool textile exports alone the value to the region’s economy is in excess of £255 million and the industry is alert to opportunities to promote itself wherever possible.
This effects the growth in other areas, including tourism. The Japanese are a good example of a nation which buys into our culture as much as the quality when purchasing our products. Every year we receive many overseas visitors keen to “buy into” the story, including journalists, who return to their countries of origin to promote the concept of contemporary fashion led products in addition to the tradition and history.
Technical textiles (sometimes known as advanced flexible materials) are also very important, as this is an area with infinite opportunity.
I see this as the next stage in the ever-increasing development of textiles and related products.
How do exports in this sector from the Yorkshire and Humber region compare with exports from the sector in other regions?
Traditionally, this is the region that leads on textiles and it is fair to say that around 80% of our total UK production for apparel textiles comes from this region.
Technical textiles is difficult to quantify as this can often be included in the statistics of other sectors for example, healthcare, automotive and so on. Certainly the region vies for position in this particular area with the North West and much collaboration takes place across the Pennines.
As with other UK regions, the clothing industry has suffered over the years with much of the production going off shore, however, there is still some desire to have British made. Only today a top international tailor asked me if I could find a good manufacturer in Yorkshire for high quality men’s shirts! Trench coats produced by a top international brand are still proudly made here in Yorkshire too.
That aside, there is an increasing number of designers springing up in the region – and whilst London is still considered the home of British fashion, we can boast that we are competing on the international stage. Much of this is down to the excellent standards of living here in this part of the world. Such businesses do find it more convenient to live and work here.
Are there any particular products in this sector that have seen a significant growth?
With regards to woollen worsteds, as well as the traditional markets such as Japan, Italy and the US, we are now also seeing new opportunities in other markets because this region can offer high-end top quality goods. For example, high-end consumers in China are now searching for and sourcing our woollen worsted products. It is quite interesting, because at the lower end of the sector China is regarded as a competitor, but at the higher end our region has something to offer them. Higher end consumers seem to like our history, our tradition and our quality.
With woollen worsteds, the story is similar but the market can be virtually anywhere in the world and again, this is true for technical textiles. Because it is so niche and items tend to be bespoke and original then the products can be in demand anywhere.
Which geographical markets are growing the fastest?
I don’t think there is a particular market that is growing the fastest. All markets provide a trading opportunity and we have to make sure we stay ahead of the game and be prepared for new markets. Generally, I would consider the emerging markets to currently be China, India and Russia.
Are there any particular market entry strategies favoured in this sector (e.g. using an agent/ joint ventures etc)?
With regards to woollen worsteds the favoured strategy is a very traditional route which goes back centuries when salesmen from Huddersfield and Halifax would arm themselves with their product and physically take it directly to the customer. In a way this direct contact still exists, although now there are key international trade events, which buyers and agents will attend to view products themselves.
In some countries, take China as an example, some textile companies have made the decision to form partnerships with others in the market. There is no hard and fast rule; it is really down to the individuals and companies concerned.
The fashion industry is very much about branding and image and therefore anyone wishing to get into the clothing sector should be aware of these factors, as well as good public relations. Nobody will buy anything unless it has a recognised label or some perceived added value. Some markets favour direct contact with the customer/retailer whilst others require agents.
Are there any challenges/ milestones specific to this sector that companies would have to overcome in order to succeed in overseas markets?
There are very many. For those that are new to the market – particularly in clothing, footwear and technical textiles – it is a huge investment in terms of finance and time. It is not easy for the reasons given in the above answer – the importance of branding, image etc. This sector is generally not one where you can make a product and have a quick hit. You have to be in it for the long term.
The sector is very competitive, particularly because in straightforward woollen textiles and fashion there is a lot of competition from overseas and from the Asian market specifically. Companies must have something that is different and provides some kind of added value – such as a brand name, or something to catch the eye of the customer.
However, competition means value for money and it means that people have to be aware of pricing and design. Design is a big part of what people in this sector do and this is why we must keep ahead of the game in a lot of ways. As an industry the clothing and textile industry is constantly re-inventing itself and this is why keeping up and succeeding can be very difficult.
Are there any key organisations/networks which could help people in this sector with planning their overseas trading?
We are very fortunate that the two industry trade associations for the sectors I cover are excellent and they have a lot of expertise. These are UK Fashion Exports and the British Wool Textile Export Corporation.
Could you give us a brief indication of your background and experience in this sector?
I have been involved in international trade for more than 25 years. Since 1994 I have been closely connected with the region’s textile companies and have worked with most in the region in one way or another. I have a close association with many of our partner networks including the British Wool Textile Export Corporation and UK Fashion Exports.
Between 1994 and 2004 I led over 100 trade missions to a variety of both developed and emerging markets across the world. I have also organised British groups for key trade exhibitions such as Australia Fashion Week and regularly work alongside other trade organisations in support of a British presence at Premiere Vision; Milano Unica; Techtextile and other key industry focused trade events.
For the last couple of years I have been involved in an ‘informal’ fashion designer network across the region. It has proved very popular and we meet two to three times a year to talk about international trade and international lifestyle trends. There will be more coming up in 2007, so I will keep people informed.
In 2004 I received the MBE for services to exports.
In what ways can you assist Yorkshire and Humber companies in this sector?
I am the Regional Sector Specialist with UK Trade & Investment for the textiles, fashion and design sector in the Yorkshire & Humber region. Therefore I work with any regional company in this sector – and indeed already have worked with a majority of them – and can assist them in developing contacts, setting up exhibitions, researching markets and selling their goods overseas. Funding is sometimes available, bespoke packages too, so it is always worth calling me first.
My experience of international markets is both extensive and diverse, as is my network of international contacts. I work very closely with a number of key partners in the region – such as business support organisations; other government departments; newspapers and other media organisations. Therefore, I can use my contacts and experience to assist companies in this region wishing to develop links overseas and expand their business globally.
I suggest interested companies look at the two key websites, which are this one – www.tradeyorkshire.com – and www.uktradeinvest.gov.uk after which they may get in touch through the contact us section of this website.
